Thursday, June 19, 2014

The Plough & the Stars

The Plough & the Stars
123 Chestnut St, Philadelphia, PA 19106 (215) 733-0300

The plough and the stars. This Irish Pub and Restaurant is situated conveniently in the Old City area of 2nd/Chestnut St. Plenty of bars and nightclubs surround it, it is a short walk from the Arden Theater (which is why we were in the area), and for the hopeless romantic, it is a short distance walk to the water front area.

When you walk into the premises it is clear from the start this is primarily a pub/sports bar.  I am only reviewing it because I felt the food was of its own merits good enough to include in my blog.

Large TVs dot the wall and the upstairs features 2 huge projection televisions for all the diehard sports fans.

We grabbed a corner table upstairs to people watch, and it was a little less noisy than the aficionados watching the world cup below.

 This is the view from the 2nd floor balcony of patrons below.  A birthday celebration was underway and some couples and businessmen enjoyed a few brews.


Up on the second floor, the large projection screens showed the game while a small bar kept those who wanted a quieter setting while watching the game satiated. 
Interestingly enough, the upstairs features some large paintings, one of which can be seen here and you can see the Greek architectural elements with the columns.  After a little research, I found the original building here used to be bank so the Greek columns approach made sense. On the lower floor there is a large fireplace which I imagine is quite cozy in the winters. 
Calamari salad: coated and deep fried with a provencal sauce. Liked the alvocado touch.  Not quite sure about the grapefruit.  Didn't seem to go along with the rest of the salad. 


Well the soup de jour (spring vegetable) gets a B+ for taste, a C- for presentation. You couldn't throw some parsley flakes or something on top?  Even a little greens (maybe basil) on the side to add some pizzazz?  Come on Plough, step it up!  It was nice and creamy, cooked in a chicken broth reduction and had some notes of pepper.  Not bad, but hardly worth going out of your way for it.
(above) Organic Hudson Valley Duck Grilled Duck Breast in a caramelized Pear Sauce served with Pears Poached in Lemon and White Wine, Mashed Potatoes & Vegetable du Jour.  Now we're talking.  I had mine cooked to medium, and it came out medium-well but that is a minor blemish on an otherwise delicious dish.  The duck itself was tender and juice and the the sweet caramelized pear sauce mixed nicely with the duck with the occasional poached pear adding an explosion of flavor to the meal.  This is probably the Plough's best dish and would highly recommend if you go.  One minor detail of course is presentation--certainly could have done more on that part.  Form the potatoes into some sort of shape (square, circle, more appropriately, soccer ball to honor the World Cup).  It looks like they were just dumped on there. Also, if you are going to slice the duck, arrange the pieces nicely, it takes two seconds and would really give the dish the bump it needs to move from that B+ to an A grade dish.
(above) Atlantic Salmon & Crabmeat Baked Salmon stuffed with Crab Meat in a Lemon Caper White Wine Sauce served with Basmati Rice & Wilted Spinach.  The salmon was not bad although again, the presentation really could use some work.  I'm not sure if there is a disconnect between the kitchen staff and the food expediters (those who prepare the dish for serving), but certainly could have done this better.

Some closing remarks:

  • I'm told on Fridays and Saturdays the tables are pushed aside and the bar becomes a night club on those nights. 
  • The bathrooms were adequately clean, though a few paper towels were on the floor. 
  • The service was terrible. I don't say that as a general rule, but tonight was BAD. I've eaten here maybe 5x and usually never see the same server twice. Probably not making much in tips if the turn around is that fast.  Our server this evening did not know if the restaurant had a "Syrah" and did not care to make conversation with us at all.  Our food was simply brought and dumped on the table.  The coffee was served long AFTER dessert was complete and more than once the server came to check if "we were ok" but the implication was that we were being rushed through our meal (even though the restaurant was sufficiently empty). 
  • The redeeming qualities: PRICE. The portions are large and the prices reasonable.  Dinner for two (depending upon the number of drinks) can easily be had for under $100.  The food. For the price asked, the food is quite good. This is the perfect bar as well for an after work brew, and I'd imagine happy hour is quite the lively event.

Sunday, June 15, 2014

Spraga

Spraga
440 S Broad St, Philadelphia, PA 19146 (215) 735-1913

Spraga, cozily situated on the corner of S Broad and Pine St is an upscale, small plates (tapas) restaurant serving new American Cuisine. It has intimate seating for 60 people, but is open and uncrowded, especially due to the large floor to (almost) ceiling windows that line the restaurant offering a lively view of Philadelphia's Avenue of the Arts. Certainly a great tourist destination as the people watching alone makes for a vibrant evening. However, Spraga maintains its stance on using local, sustainable ingredients and the menu offerings reflect a conservative, agrarian flair.
Spraga, named for its chef, Kevin Spraga, serves dinner Monday through Thursday from 5 p.m. until 10 p.m., and Friday and Saturday until 11 p.m.  It is based on a prix fixe menu serving 4 courses for $55 a person. There is an optional wine pairing for an additional $50 a person.

The exterior of Spraga is typical simple type, black and white classy/elegant arrangement with broad black canopies and wonderfully decorated landscaped trees decorated with Christmas Tree lighting which lights up the sidewalk beautifully at night. (See first picture).
Immediately upon entering, we see an open space kitchen which has a brilliant sense of transparency and honesty.  There's no "whoops" moments of dropping an item on the floor and flinging back onto the plate.  There is even a row of barstools situated nicely in front of the chefs as they work to prepare your meal.  For the discerning customer (or paranoid schizophrenic), you are certainly free to watch your food being prepared and there is something immensely satisfying about that.  The lighting is plentiful but recessed and dimmed to set the mood while the ears are met with tremulous and/or vibrant conversation.  A couple enjoys an intimate "cheers" in the corner.  A group of businessmen in suits discuss leading economic indicators.  A lone investment banker sips his martini at the bar.

Inside the main dining area, white cloth tables and white china adorn the tables with the de rigeur white candle centerpieces.  One gorgeous addition was the central square wooden paneling seen in the left of the above picture.  It separates the customers somewhat (the bar- look for the turquoise blue lighting above) is separate from the rest of the diners as well as diners on the opposite side of the square wooden paneling. This adds a great deal of intimacy to the restaurant as well as an opportunity for some simple decorations (see the hearth above) which certainly did not go un-noticed.
This view is from the opposing side of the wooden paneling wall visible prominently in this picture. This picture was taken nearest the door so we are able to see the gorgeous open glass panels looking out onto the bustling street.  Now weary reader, I know this blog is about food, so without further adieu...
(above) GRUYERE POPOVER. This is simply a muffin styled bun with a hollow inside. Gruyere is simply a cheese named after a Swiss village. It is a traditional, creamery, unpasteurized, semi-soft cheese.  It was served with butter with pepper and thyme on top which made for a delicious combination.
(above) Next among the amuse-bouches was a foie gras soup.  It was creamy and sweet with a slight spicy accent.  Particularly pleasing to the palate and not so little as to not allow a thoughtful savoring.  In my opinion, this was the best dish of the evening and should join the ranks among the four course offerings to be ordered a-la-carte.
(above) SPRING VEGETABLES cooked & raw . hazelnut carrot dressing.  The first course.  This becomes the chef's appetizer.  A way to expertly draw you in to the meal and see what awaits for the discerning palate.  If the foie gras was indeed the creme of the crop, this was no disappointment.  Certainly, perhaps a close second to the soup.  Cooked mixed greens with a terrific sweet hazelnut dressing which was just light enough it did not take away from the freshness of the vegetables offered.  The portion was sufficient as well.  Not too large to make 3 more courses seem daunting, but not too small where I felt I did not have enough.
(above) CAESAR SALAD gem lettuce. treviso. pickled fennel tempura. To all wondering readers, treviso is an Italian vegetable also called "the winter flower" because of its lovely form and its appearance late in the season. A red radicchio named for its home province, treviso is an important part of the region's local cuisine.  It is seen in the picture predominantly displayed in reddish-purple hues in this course.  While in my opinion, this course was not as good as the Spring Vegetables, it was still palatable and the Caesar dressing was not bad.  Nothing however too remarkable except of course for the inclusion of this unique ingredient (treviso).
(above) AGNOLOTTI bay leaf ricotta. crayfish. sea beans.  Agnolotti is a type of pasta typical of the Piedmont region of Italy, made with small pieces of flattened pasta dough, folded over with a roast beef meat and vegetable stuffing. Sea beans, also known as Salicornia is a genus of succulent, halophyte (salt tolerant) plants that grow in salt marshes, on beaches, and among mangroves.  This was a good start to the second course offerings but in my humble opinion much less appetizing than the Risotto...
(above) BARLEY RISOTTO crispy rabbit. fava beans. charred onions.  Far more appetizing than the Agnolotti, the creamy risotto contrasted nicely with the dryness of the rabbit. Fava beans, also widely known as broad beans, come in soft green pods that yield tender, sweet, springy beans perfect in salads and other spring-time dishes. They are seen prominently buried in the risotto at about the 12 o'clock position. Quite large, and quite tasty in this risotto.  Loved the addition of the fava beans.
 (above) SPRING LAMB royal trumpets. curly kale. sauce bordelaise. Bordelaise is a classic French sauce named after the Bordeaux region of France, which is famous for its wine. The sauce is made with dry red wine, bone marrow, butter, shallots and sauce demi-glace.  Perhaps the most interesting addition to this 3rd course offering was not the meat itself but the curly kale.  These green gems were salty but palatable and almost tasted like salt/vinegar potato chips, but made from kale.  Definitely the most interesting part of the course.  The lamb was not bad, and the red sauce bordelaise is clearly visible marinating the medium-well done lamb. The Royal Trumpet mushrooms are hiding under the kale, but have light brown, trumpet-shaped caps resting on tender white stems and are commonly known as King Oyster mushrooms.
(above) BROOK TROUT long beans. romesco sauce. almond brown butter. If the foie gras was indeed the best course of the evening, this gave it a run for its money. Romesco is of course a nut and red pepper-based sauce from Tarragona, Catalonia, Spain. It is typically made from any mixture of roasted or raw almonds, pine nuts, and/or hazelnuts, roasted garlic, olive or sunflower oil, bitxo peppers (similar to New Mexico chiles) and/or nyora peppers (a small, round, variety of red bell pepper). Flour or ground stale bread may be used as a thickener or to provide texture. Other common ingredients include roasted tomatoes, red wine vinegar and onions. Leaves of fennel or mint may be added, particularly if served with fish or escargot. The addition of the candied nuts on top of the already succulent trout in combination with the romesco sauce was to die for. What a grand finale to an already excellent meal.  But hopefully you saved room because now comes the dessert.
(above) COFFEE CAKE white coffee ice cream. salted caramel sauce. I don't have much to say about this dish, probably because I was overwhelmed and enjoying this dessert way too much.  Then again, I do have a sweet tooth. The ice cream and caramel sauce dovetailed quite nicely with the cake itself and the brittle on top the cake was a welcome addition.  Added a perfect crunchy texture to an already astounding dessert.
(above) Strawberry Shortcake. Lemon poppy seed biscuit, strawberry ice cream.  An excellent finish to the meal.  Rich and creamy but not too sweet as to be overpowering.  Served in a clear glass bowl which I thought an interesting touch to allow one to see into the layers of thought put into crafting this dessert.
I don't often comment on the bathrooms, but they were so clean, so nicely decorated and so elegant I couldn't resist.  If the cleanliness of the restrooms is any indication of the other qualities of the establishment, this was certainly second to none. Large wheelchair accessible sink with vanity and a huge over-sink mirror that stretches the length of the bathroom. The toilet was touchless and the stone-brick wall was a beautiful touch.

Monday, June 9, 2014

The Restaurant School at Walnut Hill College

The Restaurant School at Walnut Hill College
4207 Walnut St, Philadelphia, PA 19104 (215) 222-4200
The Restaurant School is probably West Philly's best kept secret.  This oversized house has been converted into the Walnut Hill College, which grants 2 and 4 year degrees in culinary arts, hospitality, hotel management, pastry chef, and more. The unique nature of this restaurant is the dramatically reduced price (dinner for 2 came to $70) and the fact that everything from the dishes, the menus, the desserts, the cocktails were all crafted by students.  All the servers were also students. Reservations fill up quickly--the night we ate there there were NO time slots available on open table.
The school is impeccably decorated.  Indeed, I'd presume to say a hefty chunk of student tuition goes to lawn care and landscaping.
What a gorgeous main dining area.  Loved the decor and open air feeling presented by the vaulted ceilings and huge skylights.
The menus were hand made and sown into baskets to enclose the night's offerings.
9:00 Cuban Bread. 3:00 Multi grain  12:00 squid ink bread.  Strawberry Rubarb compote.  The butters were honey Jasmine and Colongi salt butter (sea salt).  Fantastic butters (especially the honey jasmine).  Ended up having two baskets of bread.

Honey Jasmine butter (balls) and Colongi salt butter (triangles)

As an aside, I ordered the most amazing, refreshing summer cocktail, called the English Garden: Beefeater's gin, apple juice, St Germain lime juice, muddled cucumber. Definitely buy the ingredients and make this at home!  You won't regret it.
(above) Tequila lime salad: grilled shrimp, romaine, red and yellow pepers, grape tomatoes, corn, avocado, black beans, red onion and queso fresco, topped with tortilla strips
(above) Chilled mint pea soup: creme fraiche*, fried mint leaf
*soured cream containing 30–45% butterfat and having a pH of around 4.5
This was perhaps the dish I was not satisfied with.  The consistency was almost gelatinous, too thick for my taste, and when I brought it up to the student asking for a critique, she definitely agreed.  Also, it was missing something...just too bland for my taste.
(above) Sesame Crusted Rare Tuna: Grilled baby Bok Choy, edamame puree, pickled ginger bean sprouts, daikri radish.  Loved the fantastic terriyaki sauce and the tuna was cooked JUST right.
(above) Indian spiced chicken: scented rice, mache*, roasted garlic naan, charred scallion, cucumber raita, spicy pickled vegetables.
*edible salad green Valerianella locusta, also known as corn salad and lamb's lettuce

(above) Strawberry Mango Galette.  Pastry cream, balsamic sauce and coconut sorbet
(above) Lemon Rosemary Ricotta Cheesecake. Pistachio crust, nut brittle, honey sauce.

On a closing note, the other dining room was too spectacular not to include in this review:


The Melting Pot: Philadelphia

The Melting Pot: Philadelphia
1219 Filbert St, Philadelphia, PA 19107 (215) 922-7002
I don't normally review chain restaurants, but The Melting Pot offers the unique experience of fondue cooking at the table side.  Fondue in the traditional sense is a dish of melted cheese served in a communal pot (caquelon) over a portable stove (réchaud), and eaten by dipping long-stemmed forks with bread into the cheese.  This has been generalized to include other types of fondue (chocolate for example).
(above) CHEDDAR Fondue. Aged, medium-sharp cheddar and Emmenthaler Swiss cheeses, lager beer, garlic and mustard powder and seasonings. Served with artisan bread and seasonal vegetables as well as fresh fruit.  The breads pictured here are sourdough, white, and wheat bread.
(above) PEAR & GORGONZOLA (335 cal) A bed of mixed greens topped with fresh pears, Gorgonzola cheese and sliced almonds, topped with an apple cider vinaigrette.
(above) CALIFORNIA (149 cal) Mixed baby salad greens, Roma tomatoes, candied pecans and Gorgonzola cheese with Raspberry Black Walnut Vinaigrette
 (above) All entrées include seasonal vegetables and signature dipping sauces.
 (above) SEAFOOD TRIO (419 - 513 cal) Sesame-crusted ahi tuna, succulent Pacific white shrimp and Atlantic salmon.

(above) FRENCH QUARTER (883 - 965 cal) Premium filet mignon, all-natural breast of chicken and Pacific white shrimp seasoned with Cajun spices and accompanied by flavorful Andouille sausage.
(above) We got the 4 course flight of wine.  With the Cheese fondue: SeaGlass Pinot Gris.  With the Salad: New Age White Blend.  With the entre: Dreaming Tree Red Blend.  With dessert: Greystone Merlot.

For dessert, we got: Flaming Turtle We consider it fondue candy. It’s an irresistible combination of milk chocolate, caramel and candied pecans flambéed tableside. Each chocolate fondue comes with fresh strawberries, blondies, bananas, pineapple, cheesecake, Rice Krispies Treats®, marshmallows, pound cake and brownies.  (not pictured--much to my chagrin)

FINAL NOTES:

  • The courses came out WAY too quickly.  I was barely done with my cheese fondue when the salad course came out ALONG with the 2nd wine.  So I had 2 dishes on my table and two (almost full) glasses of wine.
  • The concept of serving raw meat and having YOU cook it is nice--if you are into that sort of thing.  But, for $140, while better than a stick in the eye, I'd rather have the food cooked FOR me.  So, if it was unclear earlier, each course is accompanied by a fondue that you cook whatever the entree is or dip (in the case of the cheese and dessert fondue).  The only course not served with fondue was the salad course appropriately. 
  • Our server was rushing and constantly checked back to "make sure we were ok" but the way it was said was something more to the effect of, "I get off soon and want to go home, hurry up and eat and leave me a tip."
  • Probably the best part of the meal was the fondue dessert.  Honestly, if I would go back it would be for a few cocktails or glasses of wine and a few dessert items.  Perfect for a romantic date or outing.

Le Castagne

Le Castagne
1920 Chestnut St, Philadelphia, PA 19103 (215) 751-9913
Le Castagne is an upscale northern Italian restaurant located in Rittenhouse Square. Upon arrival the exterior is ornately decorated and a large window opens to the street from the bar giving the restaurant an open air feel. Le Castagne is translated Chestnuts in Italian which highlights the importance of Chestnuts in northern Italian cuisine and also the historic presence of Chestnut trees on the street in Philadelphia that aptly bears its name.
(above) the bar is well designed and carries a great variety of liquors. At the right is a large window that opens onto the street which is a nice touch.
The inside is well decorated with track lighting, large, flowing floor to ceiling curtains and unique wall lighting.

Of note is a large painted sculpture on the wall that resembles birds in flight or waves to me.
(above) Gnocchi al tartufo bianco. Gnocchi in a white truffle cream sauce.  Gnocchi are a dish of little dumplings made from potatoes, semolina, flour, or a combination of these ingredients
(above) Barbabietole arrosto. Roasted heirloom beets, goat cheese mousse, caraway crumble. Balsamic vinaigrette.
(above) Costata di vitello alla griglia. Milk fed veal chop, roasted garlic, lemon.  One of the highlights of the night, tender and juicy and prepared to a wonderful medium.
(above) Crema di Castagne.  Chestnut custard, chocolate, candied chestnuts, and meringue.  Served with a glass of limoncello.  Excellent finish to an excellent meal.

I will end with a bittersweet moment to an otherwise excellent meal.  We were chased out of the restaurant by a server who mistakenly thought we had not paid the check. I've never been followed out of a restaurant in my life and I'm not sure what happened, but we felt the staff could have handled the situation with a little more finesse.

Otherwise, this was an excellent meal and would certainly return again.  Great spot indeed for an after work cocktail with that beautiful bar and open air theme with the huge window.